Kakadu National Park, around 160 miles from Darwin along the Arnhem Highway and stretching 125 miles south from the coast, 62 miles from east to west, truly is a highlight of any stay in the Northern Territory.

It has the rare distinction of being on the World Heritage List for both its cultural and natural significance; here you will find some of the best examples of Aboriginal Rock Art in all Australia (the park also boasts one of the highest concentrated areas of easily accessible rock art in the whole world), as well as hordes of native wildlife. The landscape of Kakadu National Park is breathtaking, combining lush wetlands, gorges, waterfalls and rugged escarpments, all set in nearly 7,500 square miles of National Park.

The name Kakadu originates from the local Aboriginal language Gagadju, and much of Kakadu National Park officially still belongs to the Aboriginal people, and is leased to the Australian government for use as a National Park.

The park has several Aboriginal settlements within its boundaries, and employs many Aboriginals as guides and rangers within the park. Also within the limits of the park are a few areas that do not form part of the park but are used for other purposes, namely uranium mining in the north east. At the centre of the park is Jabiru, a small mining township which has the honour of being the only town in Australia to be located within a National Park.

Visitors to Kakadu should time their visits carefully, as there is a dramatic difference between visiting in the wet and dry seasons. The landscape it totally transformed between the seasons – flood plains that are bone dry in September can be submerged under three metres of water just a few months later. Also, some of the access roads become impassable during the wet season, making some of the main attractions of the park inaccessible.

The local Aboriginal people recognise six different seasons – the “build up” to the wet season is between October and December, and is humid, stormy and the mosquitoes proliferate; the wet season “proper” runs from January through to March, when there can be violent thunderstorms, but the wildlife and plant spotting is fantastic as many species thrive in these hot, moist conditions – most of Kakadu’s annual rainfall falls during these months; the storm season comes next, followed by the “mists” season, from May to mid June, when the air becomes drier, most of the tracks re-open and there is still plentiful water – this is a good time to visit as it is still not the busiest tourist season. This comes in the “Dry”, in July and August, when the animals and birds are plentiful and the air less humid – the downside being this is the busiest time of the year for tourists too. The park is too big and too varied to be visited in just one day, and a stay of tow to three days is recommended.

Getting to Kakadu National Park

Kakadu is located a three hour drive from Darwin on the Nature’s Way Tourism Drive. Self drive (4WD vehicles are not necessary, though may make your journey more comfortable) is definitely the best way to explore the region, though there are many excellent tours on offer from a variety of Northern Territory tour operators, from both Darwin and Katherine.

Both the Arnhem Highway (from Darwin to Kakadu) and Kakadu Highway (from Katherine to Kakadu) are completely sealed roads, and some roads within the park are also sealed, though many are dirt tracks and not accessible all year round. Between November and April you should enquire about the road conditions before you depart if you are in any doubt, and up to date road reports can be obtained from the Visitor Centre at Jabiru.

The Bowali Visitor Centre near Jabiru is 160 miles from Darwin, and is a good starting point for any visit, as it gives an overview of the landscape of the park, as well as details of the main attractions and advice on how to plan your time in Kakadu.

The numerous tours that operate to Kakadu National Park typically include Jim Jim Falls, Nourlangie, and a cruise on the Yellow River, including an overnight stay in the Park, and all meals. Longer tours also operate that combine Kakadu with Katherine Gorge.

Things to do and see in Kakadu National Park

Rock Art and Aboriginal History: There is archaeological evidence to suggest that Kakadu has been inhabited by the Aboriginal people for over 50,000 years, and the world-renowned rock art in the park tells the story of and gives and insight into the early inhabitants of the region.

Within Kakadu National Park, there are in excess of 5000 separate rock art sites, dating from up to 20,000 years ago – two of the most renowned are at Ubirr and Nourlangie (see below). Rock art is massively important to the Aboriginal people; as they have no written language, these pictures are in effect historical archives. Many of the rock art galleries that are open to visitors are actually relatively speaking quite modern, and visitors will also find that some of the old paintings have been “touched up” by the Aboriginal people quite recently. In order to protect the sites from further damage, most of the accessible sites have boardwalks to keep visitors at a reasonable distance from the art. The rock art galleries are best explored with a guided tour, as the Aboriginal guides can explain the cultural, social and historical significance of the art so much better than even the best interpretative signage.

Aboriginal Culture: There are numerous locations and events throughout Kakadu National Park that will enable visitors to gain an insight into the fascinating history and culture of the Aboriginal people of the Top End. Some of the best places and events are as follows: The Jabiru Mahbilil Festival, held early in September each year, is named after the seasonal winds that blow across the region. It features a mixture of both Aboriginal and European culture, shown through music, dance, art, clothing, food and crafts. Once the sun has set, there is a breathtaking fireworks display over Lake Jabiru. The architecture of the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre in Cooinda tells the story of Kakadu National Park as told by the traditional Aboriginal owners of the land. The design of the Bowali Visitors Centre, just outside Jabiru, represents the traditional design of an Aboriginal rock shelter – inside, it has a huge amount of information both about the ecology of Kakadu National Park, and also about Aboriginal culture.

Wildlife: Other than the Aboriginal Rock Art, the main draw of Kakadu National Park is the wildlife – the park is home to over 1000 species of plant, 25 species of frog, 60 different mammal types, 51 freshwater fish (which represents around a quarter of Australia’s total), 280 bird species (more than a third of all those found in Australia), and at least 10,000 kinds of insect – all in all, it is a nature-lover’s paradise. Kakadu is of immense importance when it comes to its wildlife – it is one the UN list of Wetlands of International Importance, mainly because of the water-bird population, and some of the rarer species are unique to the park.

If you want to see the freshwater crocodiles for which Kakadu is well-known, then both Jim Jim and Twin Falls have them – freshwater crocodiles are broadly considered to be harmless, but there are also plenty of the deadlier saltwater crocodiles throughout the park – take a cruise on the South Alligator or Yellow Water Rivers and you are sure to see one.

There plenty of other resident reptiles in Kakadu National Park, including frilled lizards, five species of freshwater turtle, and three highly poisonous breeds of snake - though you are highly unlikely to meet them. Perhaps one of the most mesmerizing and famous sights within Kakadu National Park is that of the plentiful birdlife – from pelicans and storks to kingfishers, eagles and owls. There are also numerous mammals that roam freely around Kakadu – kangaroos, wallabies, and the black wallaroo, which is pretty much unique to Kakadu, to name but a few. And then there are the fish, including the NT favourite, the barramundi – this time it is the silver barramundi, which can grow to over a metre in length, and which interestingly changes sex from male to female at the age of five!

Walking: Kakadu is the ideal place if you are keen on bushwalking, though some of the routes can be quite tough. There is a network of bushwalking tracks, ranging from well-worn marked trails to more challenging overnight hikes, all of which cross the varied landscape of thundering waterfalls, wetlands teeming with wildlife, and Aboriginal rock art sites. Most trails are very well marked, with maps at the start of each route, detailing the time the walk should take and the distance covered, and a grading (easy, moderate of difficult). Most walking trails are best explored between May and October once the tropical rains are over, and the weather is cooler and less humid. Some trails are accessible year round, and walkers who choose to visit during the wet season November to April) will be rewarded with views of lush vegetation. Longer walks (overnight and longer) require special permits and are better undertaken as part of an organised group tour.

Some of the most popular walks are as follows: Barrk Sandstone Walk is a challenging eight mile walk taking around six to eight hours and visiting the sandstone region around Nourlangie Rock; The Sandstone and River Bushwalk is near Ubirr, and is around four miles in length and should take around four hors to complete – highlights along the way include some spectacular views of the East Alligator River, over the floodplains of the park, and scenic billabongs; The Twin Falls Plateau Walk is a difficult and steep four miles track to the plateau above Twin Falls, but well worth the effort. Allow around three to four hours, including time for a dip in the pools on the way. A permit for this walk is required from the Bowali Visitors Centre: the Yurmikmik Walks in the south of the park are a series of interconnected walking tracks which guide walkers to some of the best waterfalls and natural swimming pools; The Mirrai Lookout Walk is graded as moderately difficult, although at just over two miles it is one of the shorter walks in the park. It takes in the Mount Cahill Lookout, which involves a steep climb, but the breathtaking views over the Kakadu escarpment are some of the best so it is well worth the effort.
Ubirr: This is a spectacular rock art site, 24 miles north of the Arnhem Highway, and 62 miles from the park entrance. The site is open between May and November only, as parts of the road are impassable during height of the wet season. There is a circular walking track of about a mile in length that takes you past several of the rock art sites – the main highlight however is the main gallery where there is a large display of well-preserved paintings of wallabies, possums, tortoises and fish. The oldest paintings at Ubirr are believed to have been painted as long ago as 20,000 years ago, with the most recent painted in the last century. You can also choose to climb further up above Ubirr to the top of a rocky look out from which you will be rewarded with a spectacular 360 degree view of the Nardab floodplain.

Nourlangie: Nourlangie is an isolated, outlying rocky outcrop of the Arnhem Land escarpment which has been hugely significant to the Aboriginal people for thousands of years. Comprised of red sandstone, it looms out of the surrounding woodland, and falls away in a series of sheer cliffs at the base of which is some of Kakadu’s best known rock art. Nourlangie is at the end of an eight mile sealed road that turns off the Kakadu Highway, 13 miles south of the Arnhem Highway. It is well worth spending a day is this part of Kakadu National Park, as apart from the rock art, there are numerous other places worth a visit. A one mile circular walk from the main car park at Nourlangie will take you past Anbangbang Rock Shelter, which was used for 20,000 years by the Aboriginal people as a shelter from thunderstorms and heat. You can also take an eight mile walk around the base of the rock. Heading back towards the highway and you will come across the Anbangbang Billabong, which has a beautiful carpet of water lilies, and is a scenic spot for a picnic.

Jim Jim & Twin Falls: These two spectacular waterfalls are accessible only by 4WD vehicle along a dry season sand track that turns south off the Kakadu Highway between Nourlangie and Cooinda. It is about 38 miles from the highway to Jim Jim Falls and a further six miles from there to Twin Falls, with the last half a mile or so on foot. Jim Jim Falls has a sheer 215m drop, which is spectacular after the rains but can dry up altogether by the end of the dry season. Twin Falls never dries up and you can take a boat cruise to the boas of the falls for some great views. Visitors should be aware that the track to the Falls can be closed even into June.

Yellow Water and Cooinda: The Yellow Water Billabong forms part of the South Alligator River floodplain and has a large population of water birds. Located around 30 miles down the Kakadu Highway from its junction with the Arnhem Highway, then around three miles to the wetland turn-off, this is the perfect place to take a wildlife cruise – the best time being sunrise or sunset (though beware of the prolific mosquitoes).

Gunlom: Gunlom, or Waterfall Creek, is a very popular Kakadu attraction, mainly because it offers great views over the park from the natural pools at the top of the waterfall. Gunlom also featured in Crocodile Dundee.

Accommodation in Kakadu National Park

Accommodation in Kakadu National Park is varied and prices also vary massively from season to season. The Gagudju Crocodile Holiday Inn at Jabiru is perhaps the most well known hotel in the region – it is set out in the shape of a crocodile, though the Gagudju Lodge Cooinda is also very popular, due to its proximity to the Yellow Water wetlands and the convenience for catching the early morning boats.

Camping is certainly one of the best ways to experience all the sights and sounds of the park, including gazing at the stars at night and waking to a dawn chorus. There are numerous campsites throughout the park, some of which are attached to resort hotels, others are run by the park itself. Visitors are only allowed to camp in designated areas, and these can be found near many of the main attractions of the park, including Jim Jim Falls, Yellow Water Billabong, Ubirr and Gunlom.

There are also the more remote bush camps, for which permits are required – these simply offer a place to pitch a tent and have no amenities as such, but if you want to get away from it all and “be at one” with nature, they are a great choice – it is wise to ensure that the camp is open before you set off though.